I rode the train back from Bruges to Brussels to connect with a Thalys train to Cologne (Koln). The ticket inspector told me that my return ticket should have been used the day I bought it -- I explained that I had told the woman I bought it from that I would return two days later, and eventually he decided to let it (and me) go.
The Thalys train, supposedly fast, didn't seem particularly fast to me, and was bit shabby. After Liege, flat fields were replaced by the steep, wooded hills of the Ardennes, interrupted briefly by the industrial area around Aachen. It was hard to tell that we had crossed the border, until three armed and uniformed Germans came through, checking ídentity papers. I was surprised, having thought European frontiers a thing of the past, and indeed would later cross in and out of Luxembourg, Belgium and the Netherlands with no checks.
Planning a quick tour of Koln on my way to Wiesbaden I stashed my luggage at the station. I put my big pack and a couple of other things into what looked like a locker. I discovered that they were whisked away to a central location, and later they were returned the same way. Koln's main sights are conveniently close to each other and to the station, and the big 'pedestrian'square was packed with people -- people sitting around (on the Roman arch), standing around (in front of the cathedral), walking around, and a few weaving around the (bad) pavement artists on bicyles or baby motorbikes with puffy tires. Good for people watching but very bad for photos.
The cathedral rewarded me with blazing stained glass, a huge modern organ and an impressive jewelled silver reliquary, temporarily blindingly lit by TV lights. The museum, despite truly astonishing quantities of Roman glass and funerary tablets, was a bit of a disappointment -- I love mosaics, and the largest was covered over.
I walked down to the Rhine to take a look at 'the busiest railway bridge in the world' before catching my train to Wiesbaden. I had expected it to take me down the east bank of the Rhine, but unfortunately the fast trains don't follow the river. Tunnels and metal fences afforded me only an occasional glimpse of villages among the fir trees.
My nephew, Geoff, and his wife Chris, were putting me up for two nights. Their flat was alive with books, CDs, posters, toys, Chris's needlework and Geoff's photos. That night we walked to their local, a pizzeria, (good pizza on a thin crust) and I met some of Geoff's friendly extended family.
Next day, Geoff and I took off to explore the Rhine -- at least I was exploring, Geoff having already walked most of it. (We were driving.) Although unquestionably scenic, I'm not quite sure why the guide books call this the Romantic Rhine. the castles were originally built so that their owners could collect 'taxes' from passing ships, and were frequently successfully besieged. Finally, all but one were comprehensively destroyed by the French in the 1680s (Louis XIV) and the 1800s (Napoleon). Then there is the myth of the Loreley -- I'm not sure what's romantic about luring sailors to their deaths!
Romantic or not, the stretch of the Rhine between Koblenz and Rudesheim, with steep banks, reconstructed castles and half-timbered, flowery villages, is definitely worth a day, or two...
We explored one castle, dark and rambling inside. Its walls were covered, literally covered, with antlers, mostly very small. I found the effect gruesome, unrelieved by the collection of black fire backs. One big set of antlers formed the wings of a dragon chandelier in the entry hall -- very gothic.
Bacharach, the village where we stopped next, was much more cheerful. I did wonder what it would be like to stay in some of the older buildings -- it looked like the furniture might all collect against the downhill wall. I was impressed by the painted interior of the church, the elegant bones of the 15th century Werner chapel, and the the view from the castle (now a youth hostel) -- well worth the climb.
A ferry took us (and the car) across the river -- no bridges on this stretch -- and I voted to take the easy way up the Loreley rock (450 feet high) for another good view. We stopped at a winery on the way back to Wiesbaden, and I found that quite drinkable red wine is made alongside the white.
Next morning Geoff dropped me at the dock in Rudesheim and I joined the long line waiting to board the K&D line's tour boat. We all mistook the stern of the boat for the bow, and I wound up with a seat in the second row at the front -- a good thing since the sun was behind us the whole way, and there was an abundance of photo ops. Thanks to the hot summer, the river was at a 20-year low and the boat couldn't dock at St. Goar. Instead I had to get off at St. Goarshausen across the river -- the boat company gave me a ticket for the ferry.
St. Goar provided a bank with an ATM that would take my card (unlike Bruges), and a river-side terrace where I killed time waiting for the next train north and eating an oversized mushroom omelet. The train took me to Koblenz, where I picked up a rental car.
I had reserved a car with automatic transmission, and was relieved when that's what I got -- along with air-conditioning, On Star and a navigation system. Normally I do my own navigating, but without a good map of Germany I was glad of the system to get me out of Koblenz' suburbs, even if it did talk to me in German. (I don't speak German, but I soon figured out the words for right and left.)
The car also allowed me to visit Burg Eltz without the 30 minute hike up (and I do mean up) from the nearest station. The hike from the car park was quite long enought for me -- deceptive deep shade from the old evergreen forest at the start was followed by bright sun the rest of the way. I rode the shuttle bus back. Seen across the ravine that protects it, the castle was picture perfect. It's not bad close up, either, with the living quarters still intact. The mandatory tour was in German, but I was handed a brief English translation of the high points.
Aside from a brief look at Trier when I returned my rental car, my blitz tour of Germany was over. I headed north through fields and villages to the autobahn, and then west at speed for Luxembourg.
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